Helmut Lang has chosen Make It Happen for the organization of its showroom during the next Paris Fashion Week. The brand will present its Men and Women collections there from January 16th to the 24th 2020. This is an opportunity to look back on three decades of success, the Helmut Lang story, precursor of the minimalist style of the early 90s.
Helmut Lang, a certain idea of fashion
At the dawn of the 90’s, a young Austrian self-taught designer, moved to New York to lay the foundations for a new silhouette. Asexual and refined to the extreme, the silhouette expresses itself in a limited register of colours. It’s a fairly clear break with the dress codes of the 80s, distinctly flashy, but it meets the aspirations of a certain youth wishing to dress with more simplicity. This street inspired fashion, made of jeans, T-shirts, neutral colours and no logo. This conception of fashion has been widely followed and constitutes a permanent source of inspiration for a whole tribe of creators: Riccardo Tisci, Raf Simons, Alexander Wang, Phoebe Philo or Virgil Abloh, to name a few.
Helmut Lang, initiator of trends over and over again
Innovating, creating a break with what was done at a later stage is even found in the organization of fashion shows, which take place in plain immaculate settings. The male and female models strut together, a detail that would now go unnoticed, but which was like a small revolution in the 90s! The brand innovated further by broadcasting its fashion shows on the internet from 1998, even though the web was still underdeveloped. The brand’s marketing uses the same refined codes as those for clothing. Inserts and billboards reduced to their simplest expression, most often boiling down to a sentence written in black characters on a white background. We cannot speak of Helmut Lang without mentioning his collaborations with artists, Louise Bourgeois and Jenny Holzer, among others, which highlight the creator’s taste for everything related to art. The art to which he devoted himself completely by becoming a sculptor himself, after having sold his fashion house in 2005.
What does the Helmut Lang 2019-2020 fall-winter collection have in store for us?
The new Helmut Lang 2019-2020 fall-winter collection is obviously a highly anticipated moment. Already presented during New York Fashion Week, the new line imagined by Mark Howard Thomas, artistic director of the brand since 2017, takes up the refined and strict style dear to Helmut Lang, to the point that certain pieces take on the appearance of a uniform. The unisex style is still present: men and women wear the same grey pleated trousers and their matching jacket or a jumpsuit that looks like a construction site outfit. The dresses are plain and loose and can sometimes be coupled with trousers. The only audacity is the use of red, used for a woollen coat, satin tailored trousers and a unisex cotton set, consisting of trousers and a jacket closed by press studs. Ultimately, Mark Howard Thomas knows how to play his cards by managing to express a personal style while preserving the brand’s main lines!
Like Helmut Lang, trust Make It Happen for the organization of your showroom during Paris Fashion Week. We create your tailor-made event in the place most suited to your brand’s DNA!